Stone setting requires patience and skill. Professional setters are highly experienced in setting and mounting gems in metal and, when you are making a piece on fashion jewelry with valuable stones, perhaps for a commission, it is important that a stone is properly set.When to use a professional Stone setting can be a daunting task, especially for the inexperienced, and although practice is the best way to learn, there are times when you may not want to risk things going wrong.
When working with valuable stones and precious metals such as platinum, mistakes can be expensive, so it is generally worth the money to employ a pro¬fessional to set the stone. Certain types of stone setting, such as pavé or illusion, take years to master and will only be of a satisfactory quality if done by an experienced professional. There are certain types of stones that setters may refuse to set, such as those renowned for being fragile or brittle.Engraving is a technique that takes years to master, so for difficult designs and inscriptions it is a good idea to get it done by a professional. They will have stock designs and monograms, but you may wish to provide your own design.Types of engraved work Traditionally, engraving is used for inscriptions, seals, signatures and heraldic devices on jewelry and other small metalwork, but is now used to create a wide range of other effects on metal. Victorian fashion jewelry was often engraved, but since engraving has to some extent been superseded by computerized techniques and mass production it is now far less commonly used.Skilled hand engraving can enhance contem-porary jewelry in a number of ways, providing unique methods for decoration, personalization or historie reference.
Amazing light-play can be achieved in pictorial representations, and depends on the direction in which the metal is cut, and the angle of the tooi. Inscriptions can be applied to a wide range of surfaces, including the insides of rings.
Preparing your piece
Your piece should be complete, except for the stone setting.
The insides of settings, or other areas that will not be accessible once the stones have been set, should have their final surface finish. You will need to indicate where the stones will be set; this may be obvious or not depending on the type of setting. Holes can be drilled for flush or grain settings, but these must be smaller than the diameter of the stones that will be used. Areas that will be pavé set should be left, as the setter should deelde the exact position of the stones; provide calibrated stones for pavé work that are all the same diameter, as these can be set much more easily than stones that vary in size.
Pieces may be electroplated once the stones have been set
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